Today I went for a hike at the Dutch Gap Conservation Area. My guide book is a little behind (or just plain wrong), because on the way in - still in car - it told me to turn left, but it was actually a right. (I know this because the area is very well signed with the newest historical tourist spot in town, which I think has the
most romantic name:
The Citie of Henricus at Dutch Gap.)
The book was also wrong about the distance of the hike. I was expecting an 8 mile out-and-back, but at some point they built a bridge in a convenient spot, and now it is a 4-mile loop.
The third error isn't technically on the trail I was on, but it was the trail next door and also recommended in the book. After I stopped in the visitor's center, I was told they discourage people from taking that river trail. They've tried to block it off, because crime has become a serious problem there. Yeah, I'm a little bummed that two hikes in a row have had this criminal element as a theme attached; I'll just try to develop some sort of plan to have in place - self-defense? mace? - which isn't really a bad idea for a woman who likes to travel alone, anyway.
So, aside from those glitches, it was a lovely day. The ride in is fascinating. Just south of the city on I-95, you make a turn and go a small ways, and suddenly there is this giant power plant looming right in front of you. The hike guide had made mention of this branch of the Dominion Virginia Power Plant, but my goodness, I was not prepared for the sight. It was the most industrial image I've seen in ages, maybe ever: massive metal work, including lots of rusty exposed frame bits (sorry, don't know the lingo here), smokestacks, billowing clouds of smoke, and yeah, rows and rows of electrical lines and transformers.
I tried to get my camera to work - it was a very impressive image - but no go. I was even more floored by the contrast of industry and nature. Another two minutes down the road, in the parking lots, and down a trail - and suddenly, solitude. The marsh on a wide, lovely lagoon, chirping and trilling of natural things. Within ten minutes, I was sitting on an observation deck, taking in the quietest, loveliest morning.
The contrast came again, later on the hike, where one lovely view of the whole expanse of water opened up - and straight ahead on the horizon, the power plant. It was completely odd. But with a strange sense of hope, too, this intermingling of humanity's harsh needs and the loveliness of the natural, like maybe we
can find a balance someday. I found hope again when the man in the visitor's center told me such fly ash ponds (where industrial pollutants are kept) as attached to the conservation area are increasingly being converted to energy sources, and Dominion has a chemist (just one?) hired to try to do the same here.
Okay, back to the hike. Because it was half the distance I expected it to be, I took a lot more time to wander down spur trails and sit at observation areas. I thought a lot about the colonists, and the Indians, and what a wonderful area this would be for living outside, with a sweet breeze, lovely shade, and abundant wildlife. If it weren't for the bugs, it would be just about perfect. (The flies were annoying, even with bug spray, but there was something about my hat that seemed to drive them away.)
There's something about wandering new places that makes me feel like an explorer, too, even on well-trodden trails. I felt such in Rome as well; traveling is the closest I think we may come to time-travel.
The trail was stunningly wide and well-blazed, and even had historical informational signs occasionally. The wildlife was all about - so many different kinds of dragonflies and butterflies, songbirds and marsh birds, and great blue herons - "of all these sorts great abundance" as John Smith himself did say, though I suspect there was a tad more abundance in his day.
At one particularly secluded observation point that was still all grown over, I was surrounded by masses of dragonflies, butterflies, many crawling bugs, all mating and eating and diving and fluttering. I thought I'd hit a nest of some sort - and then I realized, no, this is what it's like
all along an undeveloped shore. The idea of biodiversity came into sharp clarity.
It was a beautiful morning, and I really enjoyed the area. I would like to go back and play tourist, take a group of friends and take the tour of the recreated settlement, sorry, Citie. I had heard very little of this site, and what I had heard hadn't given me a clear idea of what a big undertaking it was. I do hope they are able to leave the wild parts be, though. It'd be such a shame to lose it if the tourist aspect took over.